I think it is fair to say that we have all got a pretty good idea on how we are polluting our planet and that each and every one of us needs to wise up and do more to help save it. In today’s throwaway society we all need to start thinking about how we can make a difference in our everyday lives to minimise the pollution of our land and seas by cutting down on landfill rubbish. Everyone can do their bit, there are lots of ways to help and no matter how small, everything counts.
One area that has a huge impact on the amount of rubbish ending up in landfill and our waterways is the personal care industry. Most items are sold in plastic containers that are often non-recyclable and most wipes and cleansing pads contain polyester, polypropylene, wood pulp and a cocktail of plastics, making them non-biodegradable.
Swapping your single-use, disposable wipes and cotton pads for a more sustainable alternative will mean you are making a difference, both to your skin and the planet. Isn’t it time that we cared for the planet as much as we do for our skin.
You can of course purchase some reusable cleansing pads; they are becoming more and more available at a cost. If you are reading this likelihood is you are a crafter, in which case you can easily make some by following my easy instructions for these crochet pads using organically grown cotton. Of course you would want to store them somewhere too, so why not make the storage pouch at the same time.
All you need is some DK cotton yarn, knitting needles for the pouch, crochet hook for the pads and some of your time. A small amount of your time that will make a big difference to the beautiful planet that we call home.
Enjoy 🙂
Materials:
50g Eco Cotton DK for the bag (I used Nurturing Fibres Eco Cotton DK)
Small amount of cotton fabric for the lining
15cm Zip
4mm knitting needles
Matching size cable needle
Small amounts of Eco Cotton DK for each of the crochet pads (UK terms)
4mm crochet hook
Darning needle
Ch5, ss to form a ring.
Rnd 1: Ch1 (does not count as st), 12dc into ring, ss to join.
Rnd 2: Ch2 (counts as htr), htr in same st, 2htr in each st around, ss to join. (24htr)
Rnd 3: Ch2 (counts as htr), htr in same st, *2htr in next st, 1htr in next st; rep. from * around, ss to join. (36htr)
Rnd 4: Ch2 (counts as htr), 1htr in each st around, ss to join. (36htr)
Rnd 5: Ch1 (counts as dc), 1dc in same st, 1dc in each of next 2sts, *2dc in next st, 1dc in each of next 2sts; rep. from * around, ss to join. (48dc)
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Ch5, ss to form a ring.
Rnd 1: Ch1 (does not count as st), 12dc into ring, ss to join.
Rnd 2: Ch1 (does not count as st), work 1 3tr-puff in each dc around, ss to join. (12 puffs)
Rnd 3: Ch1 (does not count as st), *1dc on top of puff, 1dc in space between puffs; rep. from * around, ss to join. (24dc)
Rnd 4: Ch1 (does not count as st), work 1 3tr-puff in each dc around, ss to join. (24 puffs)
Rnd 5: as rnd 3 (48dc)
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Note: 3tr Puff = (yarn over hook, insert hook into stitch, yarn over hook, pull up a loop) 3 times into same stitch. You have 7 loops on hook. Yarn over hook again and pull through all 7 loops. Ch1 to secure stitch.
Ch5, ss to form a ring.
Rnd 1: Ch3 (counts as tr), work 11tr into ring, ss to join. (12tr)
Rnd 2: Ch3 (counts as tr), 1Fptr in same st, work 1tr and 1Fptr into each st around, ss to join. (12tr +12Fptr)
Rnd 3: Ch3 (counts as tr), 1tr in same st, 1Fptr around Fptr from prev rnd, *2tr in next st, 1Fptr around Fptr from prev rnd; rep. from * around, ss to join. (24tr + 12Fptr)
Rnd 4: Ch1 (counts as dc), 1dc in next st, 2dc in next st, *1dc in each of next 2sts, 2dc in next st; rep. from * around, ss to join.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Cast on 41 stitches and work in Moss stitch for approx. 14cm – incr. 1 stitch in last row.
Next: Work 13sts in moss stitch, 16sts in stocking stitch, 13sts in moss stitch for 8 rows.
Next row cable row (RS): Work 13sts moss stitch, slip 4sts to cable needle (cn) to front, k4, k4 from cn, slip 4sts to cn to back, k4, k4 from cn, work 13sts in moss stitch.
Next row: Work 13sts in moss stitch, P16, work 13sts in moss stitch.
Next: Work 13sts in moss stitch, 16sts in stocking stitch, 13sts in moss stitch for 10 rows.
Next row cable row (RS): Work 13sts in moss stitch, K4, slip 2sts to cn to back, k2, k2 from cn, slip 2sts to cn to front, k2, k2 from cn, k4, work 13sts in moss stitch.
Next row: Work 13sts in moss stitch, P16, work 13sts in moss stitch.
Next: Work 13sts in moss stitch, 16sts in stocking stitch, 13sts in moss stitch for 8 rows.
Next row cable row (RS): Work 13sts in moss stitch, K4, slip 2sts to cn to front, k2, k2 from cn, slip 2sts to cn to back, k2, k2 from cn, k4, work 13sts in moss stitch.
Next row: Work 13sts in moss stitch, P16, work 13sts in moss stitch.
Next: Work 13sts in moss stitch, 16sts in stocking stitch, 13sts in moss stitch for 10 rows.
Next row cable row (RS): Work 13sts in moss stitch, slip 4sts to cn to back, k4, k4 from cn, slip 4sts to cn to front, k4, k4 from cn, work 13sts in moss stitch.
Next row: Work 13sts in moss stitch, P16, work 13sts in moss stitch.
Next: Work 13sts in moss stitch, 16sts in stocking stitch, 13sts in moss stitch for 7 rows.
Next row (WS): Cast off.
Weave in all ends. Sew in the lining and the zip.
If you prefer to print a PDF document containing all these patterns you can do so. For a small fee to cover the cost of my time writing out the pattern it is available in my Ravelry store HERE.
Happy making! xo.
